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#1880 - 10/01/10 07:06 AM Some of what I've been up to - Rivet forge revisit
camdigger Offline
MBN member
Registered: 02/16/10
Posts: 135
Loc: On Assignment
A some may recall from the old site, I inherited a portable coal rivet forge. It sat in the weather for 4 or more decades and had not fared all that well. By the time I got it home, the pan was rusted out, the air piping was rotted off, and the legs were holding on by mere fragments. I got as far as patching the pan on the old site. pic 1

I fabbed up a replacement air pipe out of steel and mounted it. The blower was in OK shape, but needed a service and a swallow's nest removed. I got it toggled up enough to light and started making new legs for the pan. Pick 2 & 3

I'd also milled the top of a short chunk of 100#/yd rail flat for an anvil.pic 4 I had a buddy cut a block out of a tree for a stand and I was in business.


Attachments
patched pan.jpg

tending fire.jpg

pan leg.jpg

Flat anvil s.jpg


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#1881 - 10/01/10 07:20 AM Re: Some of what I've been up to - Rivet forge revisit [Re: camdigger]
camdigger Offline
MBN member
Registered: 02/16/10
Posts: 135
Loc: On Assignment
After a ahort break to make some stuff with the kids (another thread maybe coming soon), I decided to make an electric blower. The hand blower works, but is tiring to use, and the kids all discovered that it wasn't all that much fun to crank the blower while Dad had all the fun with the fire and hot stuff!
I wanted a squirrel cage blower, but couldn't find one in inventory. The guy at the motor and boiler place laughed in my face when I suggested I didn't want to spend $200 on a blower for my forge. Coincidentally, we ended up with some tired upright vacuums. I tore one down and robbed the motor/blower assembly out of it. A little rough and ready tin bashing (aluminum flashing and insulation sheathing scraps actually) had an electric blower. The motor was originally rubber mounted. I made the ductwork so the motor and its' rubber mount slipped inside the duct. pic1 The vacuum blower is not ideal - it howls like a banshee. Vacuum motors rely on the airflow from the fan for cooling. This means surplus air has to be spilled after the motor and fan to prevent overheating the motor. I hacked a hole in the side of the tapered ductwork to spill surplus air. It works, but it's ugly as sin. A soup tin and a damper plate would be a vast improvement. I'm undecided how much I want to do to this set up as I'm still on the lookout for a squirrel cage fan because thay're so much quieter and the air flow easier to control .

I finished the legs and installed them. They still need some tweaking, (possibly cross bracing?)but at least I'm not scared the whole thing will flop over because a leg collapsed... pic 2 & 3


Attachments
blower 1.jpg

forge.jpg

forge 2.jpg




Edited by camdigger (10/01/10 07:35 AM)
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#1882 - 10/01/10 07:27 AM Re: Some of what I've been up to - Rivet forge revisit [Re: camdigger]
camdigger Offline
MBN member
Registered: 02/16/10
Posts: 135
Loc: On Assignment
No smithy should be without a vise. But how to make that happen for an all portable smithy? I had found a leg vise at a farm auction a while ago, and I'd seen similar vises on stands at assorted blacksmithing demos. I raided the inventory for some material and came up with a stand. I had to compromise a bit, but I can easily move the vise with a 2 wheel dolly.


Attachments
vise front s.jpg

vise side s.jpg




Edited by camdigger (10/01/10 07:41 AM)
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#1896 - 10/02/10 02:06 AM Re: Some of what I've been up to - Rivet forge revisit [Re: camdigger]
tech-ad Offline
MBN member
Registered: 06/30/10
Posts: 47
Loc: Cluny, Alberta, Canada
Cam
Try running your vacuum motor off of 12 volts. It will work, but I'm not sure if the air volume will be sufficient for the forge. If it's not enough, make a dropping resistor using a bank of parallel light bulbs in series with the motor to achieve the flow you require. The noise will dramatically drop with the reduced voltage.
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#1899 - 10/02/10 08:55 AM Re: Some of what I've been up to - Rivet forge revisit [Re: tech-ad]
cjmac Offline
MBN Enthusiast
Registered: 05/08/10
Posts: 560
Loc: Canada *****
Hey guys,

I don't know if the lower voltage is necessarily a good idea. It may run quieter but depending on the motor it is likely to generate more heat in the windings and may burn out.


Chris
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#1901 - 10/02/10 02:01 PM Re: Some of what I've been up to - Rivet forge revisit [Re: cjmac]
mdlawnguy Offline
MBN Enthusiast
Registered: 03/07/10
Posts: 878
Loc: maryland *****
how about a step down for amps not volts.. plus doesnt the local power comanies drop volts to draw more amps.. make more money.. cant remember the name of the dials.. that go from 0 to 10 amps etc.. seams like a potenciometer (spelling) rings a bell to me
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#1906 - 10/02/10 06:58 PM Re: Some of what I've been up to - Rivet forge revisit [Re: mdlawnguy]
tech-ad Offline
MBN member
Registered: 06/30/10
Posts: 47
Loc: Cluny, Alberta, Canada
I agree with cjmac that normal loads at a lower voltage will draw much higher current from the motor.
Fans and propellors draw power proportional to the cube of the RPM. Therefore, reduced speed will draw significantly reduced power, so there would not be excess current draw.
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#1907 - 10/02/10 07:47 PM Re: Some of what I've been up to - Rivet forge revisit [Re: tech-ad]
cjmac Offline
MBN Enthusiast
Registered: 05/08/10
Posts: 560
Loc: Canada *****
I was thinking more in terms of synchronous motors. I just looked online for vacuum cleaner motors and found one that is classed as "Universal". Runs AC or DC and yes the speed will vary with voltage. In this case the light bulbs as a series resistor would work.

mdlawnguy... is the device you are thinking about a "Variac"? That is a controllable transformer, usually red or grey with a big knob on the top. That would work with a universal motor as long as it was rated for the load.

The resistance in the motor (and inductance) is pretty much a constant so lowering the voltage will lower the current and lower the speed, power and noise,

With a synchronous motor the motor will track the line frequency and always run the same speed. In that case as the voltage goes down the current goes up. That is what would burn out the motor. If the name plate says something like 60Hz and 1740 rpm then it is a synchronous motor.


Chris
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