This is a project that has been placed much higher on my priority list. My truck, I have the tranny out, it's in need of parts for rebuild, as well I started to modify the deck on the back. I had a couple pics of the progress so far, but it would seem my computer ate them will get more when it's not raining.

When you pick a project, you pick them big! Should be a very handy piece of equipment when it's back together!
T

What type/ model transmission is that?

It's the 6 speed ZF S650

Those are great trannies Lincoln. I have a few of the predecessor. The ZF5. It was a great tranny too. German engineering quality stuff. GM and Dodge ran the New Venture 4500 and 5600. Big pieces of crap. The 4500 would self destruct themselves and you couldnt haul at all in OD.

The ZF s650 has an oil pump in it. Sort of a new idea for standard trannies. The best advice I can give is when rebuilding the transfer case dont buy a rebuild kit. I just bought one for my dads Dodge(more New Venture crap). I paid $750.00 for the kit. It had about $200.00 worth of bearings and $50.00 worth of seals in it. Big rip off. Just pull it down and get the bearing and seal numbers to take to the bearing shop. Most drive train places will sell seperate whatever small parts and hard parts needed. I learned this the expensive way.

The bearings and seals in the transfer case are resent, I put them in not that long ago. I also replaced the range gear and fork cause the fork fell off the gear, realized then that the planetary gear set had the thrust washer worn out but due to cost didn't replace it........mistake
The bell housing was worn where the input bearing sits so I had it machined out and a steel collar pressed in so the new bearing will fit tight. I figure on replacing all the bearings, syncro rings, seals and shims.
I plan on ordering the parts from a company online called drivetrain.com ...has any one ever dealt with these guys before?

I got 3 kits from them over the years,good service.

I got a new pic of what the truck looks like right now.
I also took the rest of the tranny apart and found that the bearing cups in the center section of the unit will rotate freely by hand in the casing, much like the input bearing cup did only not quite as lose.
I have my thoughts about it but am lookin for some feedback as to thoughts or suggestions, thanks.

I suppose that your budget will dictate what needs to happen with it. Ideally it should be replaced. However, not exactly sure what one costs. I wonder if you clean the surfaces really well. Then use a permanent variety of locktite on the case and cup. I have used this on technique on yokes that were worn out to hold u joint cups in place versus spending the dough on new yokes. Loctite makes some very heavy duty adhesives and would work for a while I would imagine.

Another option would be to stake them with a cold chisel. Find an area that doesnt have a seal surface or gasket surface. Then strike the case and race on 2 sides. Then dress up any burrs that might have been created in the race or case surface.

You may even want to do both for extra insurance.

Make sure you use bearing retaining compound. There are a zillion different types of loctite, you just have to match up the conditions of your application. We used the Green Loctite on the A-10 nose landing gear bushings. Staking the bores is ok but can be short lived because only the burr of metal is supporting the bearings. That will quickly flatten back out if you don't use some sort of gap filling retaining compound to support the rest of the bearing. If the bores are round but just loose that would be a real good repair. Check with the rebuilders in your area or get with a bearing house and see if there are different specifications for the same bearing. With the change or addition of a pre or suffix to the bearing number may get you a bearing with an .0005" oversize(or more!) outer diameter. Find the old guy or gal that remembers what a crossover and interchange book is and that will be a good start. Bearing manufacturers have culls and seconds all the time that get their own dash number. If a lot of those trannys were repaired under warranty there may be a repair oversize bearing from the dealer or manufacturer to keep from scrapping out all those housings. The last trick I saw was installing a dowel pin in the back of the bore and making a corisponding notch to fit over it in the bearing race. I saw this done on a real high-dollar(about 20 thousand)German gearbox that ran high speeds and loads. Thing got pretty warm too. I questioned the engineer on it and it was so the race could still be a tight slip fit to maintain end play but not allow the race to spin in the bore. It took him a minute to realize I was kidding when I told him we Americans did the same thing when we used cheap Chinese bearings or we flubbed the tolerance on a bore. We got to be real good friends after that thankfully. In fact he is the one putting the rest of my machines together at the plant.
I don't think I would bush the bores unless they were out of round.
Hope this helps!
T

I had never considered using something to fill the gap with Terry. I like that technique. Makes perfect sene.

I just saw this post looks a lot more complicated then my old Ford 3 speed rebuild. I think Terry has said what I was going to say. I used a prick punch or sharp center punch and fit the bearing in where it was snug on a motorcycle engine case. Then I used a bearing/shaft retaining compound. It had a spray can of cleaner simular in nature to brake cleaning compound. I rebuilt an F150 standard years ago and I bought better bearing at much less cost from IBT here in Kansas City (then what a Ford dealer wanted). I don't know about the over size bearings but a great idea.

Loctite has small and large diameter retaining compound get the correct one.

We have an IBT here also. I dont like one of the salesman there he likes to gouge everyone. We have a place that has been here since the 50's called Allied Bearings. All their staff seems to treat everyone right.

Just make sure you don't get sloppy with the loctite and let it seep into the bearing(don't ask how I know about that one either). Some of that stuff can be downright unforgiving!
T

I had never even heard of bearing retainer compound before, glad you posted. I looked it up on the net and from what I understood the Locktite #620 seemed like a good candidate for the job and the auto parts I go to had some there so I picked it up.

I also am liking the idea of a dowel pin for extra security, I really don't want to be pullin this thing out again. Had it out once before cause it would jam up shifting from low to reverse, as though the clutch wasn't disengaging. The clutch seemed a little sloppy along with the wear in the arm an all, I replaced the clutch, arm, release bearing, pilot, even the collar around the input shaft. All seemed good then till 6 months later and sounds like the release bearing squeelin Pull the tranny again and there's nothin left of the release bearing, just a couple rings! The syncro for 6th gear always seemed like it was worn so I pulled it apart. As you can see from the one pic, there isn't much left of the shims from the input shaft bearing, the whole shaft assembly was shiftin around.

I'll make sure to remember about not getting that retainer all over the place

Glad to be of help. If you use the pin trick, use a dowel pin instead of a roll pin . Also see if you can put it into a spot where you can bore the hole all the way through. That way you can get the little bugger out if you need to. We used to bore a smaller hole first all the way then drill and ream to the pin size about half way through. That gives the pin a stopping point and also keeps the pin from being worked out and roaming around in unfortunate places . The notch can be made with a highspeed cutoff wheel or diamond bit, just watch your heat and wear your safety glasses . I personally had a dowel pin shatter while driving it into a die shoe. A shard of it buried in the end of my nose about a 1/4" deep . Not only did it hurt like heck, we had to dig it out and my already substantual schnoz looked like Rudeolf's . The glasses didn't help that a bit but if that had hit an eye.......
T

I saw a guy put his eye out. He cut a phillips screw bit with a small pair bolt cutters. That thing shattered and tore his eye open. I would have never thought that would happen. The guy that did it seemed like a pretty smart guy too. He was an electrician.

I always said that as you get older accidents happen faster!

Accidents happen fast alright. I am finally relieved of my cast and pin for my thumb, I had mentioned in my wiggle wagon post that I had broke it. I put a couple pics up later, now the work begins to get it movin again.
Accidents seem to happen fast at any age if you ask me. I try being careful at everything I do, it seems that they happen when the possibility of an accident happening is the farthest thing from your mind.

It can only get better.