andre the pump is salvaged off an old loader,made by Borg Warner/Wooster,that division went out of biz many moons ago.I got it used off eBay.To replace it is about $750 USD from Surplus Center.Best guess is first section at 12gpm and second section at 4gpm.It's fed with one big inlet,1.5",feeds both pump sections.I can hit the relief valves on the loader section not too hard to do but the drive circuit just keeps going and going.It spins both axles(all 4 wheels) no problem under load(like up against a tree)The first pump section is the drive circuit..this pump section feeds the control valve,then thru a diff relief valve then to the hyd motor which is plumbed with a case drain back to the tank.The second circuit goes to the steer valve which has power beyond then on to the 3spool loader valve,then back to the tank.-Your 8gpm idea will run 4cylinders,just how fast do you want them to move? sometimes a cyl that moves too fast is hard to control.I'd go with as much HP as you can get if you're running a single stage pump.The two-section pump makes plumbing the system easy with no flow dividers or valves to slow the flow and drive up the cost.keep it simple for your first couple of projects then move up,maybe you can recylce the old parts into a new project;that's how I operate..I'm not a hydraulic prodigy,but maybe can steer ya in the right direction.

WELL i got some more parts yesterday i bought a 16 hp chonda engine and a second hand 10 gpm pump now i need to make a pump mount for the engine and fix my hydraulic tank and it should be running thanks andre

i need help on mounting the pump to the engine i need to make a mount i want to make one like this




but would this be more suited the fist is easier to make but does it have any disadvantages


thanks Andre

If you're using a belt drive, the first one will work better, but not all pumps are rated for the side loading from the belt tension (kills the bearings). The second one keeps everything in line for use with a spider (lovejoy type) or chain coupling.

You could mount the first type to the frame the engine is on, but having everything direct will help keep the overall flex down.

The section between the motor flange and the pump flange doesn't have to be round, it just has to be big enough for the coupling to rotate inside, and have an opening or two so you can tighten the fasteners on the couplings. You could use flat stock or angle just as easily.

I made one similar to the second style using 2 square flat plates and 1" angle iron.

well i when from a high to a low i built a pump mount mounted the engine and today i got given a pigeonhole storage system and when i went to put it up i had to take down a metal storage cabinet when i took it of thee wall on the garage i found termites so i have to replace half the garage frame as its all eaten out lucky i have a small shop thanks Andre

I just did a quick search on ebay for case pump and went to the "Yard, Garden & Outdoor Living" section. There are a bunch of pump mounts for Case 222 and 444 series tractors. One was a buy it now item for $17 including shipping. It may be perfect or at least close to what you want.

These are designed for inline mounting of the pump.

If you aren't in a hurry I may be able to take measurements on one of my 222s. (I have two) Or you could just ask the seller to measure the bolt circles.

Why make something when you can buy it so cheap?

well i got a video of my shop and tractor its not the best anyway enjoy Andre

http:/ youtube /www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyuaXHajcHI

hi guys i have a 2 week school holiday and i hope to get the tractor running finally.I also want to start on the fel i was wondering whether it would work if instead of two loader arms i only have one in the middle as i don't have enough box tube to build a twin loader arm but i do have a long piece of small I beam that i could mount in the middle and use two lift rams and one dump ram would this work. i would be like this cad plans loader but with two lift rams. thanks Andre

Over the weekend i started her up with the new pump and engine and low and behold it worked. Although it didn't steer i later found that the valve i used for steering didn't work so i connected the steering ram to my drive valve (two spool) it it worked although a little fast. Then the drive motor slipped on the drive coupling that was fixed by filing a key way in it.Then when i when to test it again it just wouldn't work i opened the tank and the oil was just froth so i am going to add a tube to the bottom of the tank and more oil. thanks guy pics up soon.

tractor pics

For the loader If you dont have anof Tubing just do the singel Arm but make some Brakets on the Back of the Bucket to mount it to. Afew Gusets and it shoudl be good.

hi guys i got a video of it moving under it's own power it wasn't very powerful so i am making a 2-1 reduction box to increase the torque here's the video.

youtube

Looks good. What size is your steering cylinder and what is the flow to it. It looked like it steered a little fast.

What is the red hose going to the pump? Suction side?

Fancy, nice job. Uh, where are you gonna sit, on that hot hydro oil tank? I'd at least keep an air space between the tank and seat. Might get real toasty in the summer otherwise. Just a thought.
Doc

There's a seat there Doc. You can see it on the video but is hidden on the pics. It's on the platform over the motor.
T

yeah there is a seat next to the tank. the red hose is the suction line to the pump currently the hydraulic system is just one two spool valve getting the full 10 gpm so it steering is quite fast. i will fix this when i find two single spool valves and a flow divider and use the one now for the loader. thanks Andre

hi guys good and bad news the good news it worked with the chain reduction i put in but kept coming off the sprocket i latter found i was missing the little plate that goes on the joiner. the bad news is that when i was pulling it into the shed with my other tractor the articulation joint broke. because my dad was turning the other way than i and the ram broke my welds but not after bending 1/2" steel plate so i am replacing the 1/2"plates with 3/4" plates help in with 1" bolts the main part will be made from 3/3" solid square bar with the other part made from 1 1/2" round welded in here is a pic of one very similar. also with this joint the ram will have to move so on one side of the ram i will need to weld a ball joint can this be done without pulling the ram a part i will go on the end were there is about 3" of steel before it gets the the cylinder tube itself.

Surpluscenter has some ball joint cylinders.. might be good to get another side if that one is too big and gets into jams. Post a PIC of the carnage.

there is more then one way to get an up grade.